1 week down, about 27 to go!

Our first sleeper train... needless to say it was a mixed experience, that on balance we're glad we have had! On the not so positive side, the squat toilets were horrific, with the holes going all the way through to the track! It's now very obvious why we can't use the toilet at the stations. And there weren't any curtains or doors on the 6 bed bunk cabins, which made for a truly communal experience. Including being rumbled by a snorer for most of the night. The old Chinese couple that we 'shared' our cabin with had pickled foetus eggs and vinegar, which wasn't a pleasant smell to start your sleep with!

On the plus side, the open rooms meant it was easy to interact with (and play cards with) the 4 others in our (international) break-off group - the yank, 2 Colombians and the Aussie and it didn't bother us too much in the end.

We were on what is called a hard sleeper, meaning the beds were little more than metal platforms with a thin bit of foam for padding, though the sheets were clean and both of us managed to get in a few hours good sleep despite this.

During the night, it is pretty much pitch black, the lights go off at 10pm, and the only movement is from the guards in the alley way and anyone getting on or off the train as it stops. There are regular attendants offering drink and food throughout the journey and we met another American and a Brit who were 2 yoofs from another tour of the same company. The American was getting very drunk on this horrendous Rice Wine and the Brit (from W. Sussex ironically) was in month 2 of a 12 month trip round literally every country in the world.

We have 4 more nights on sleeper trains whilst in China, nothing compared to our tour guide who spends 2 months of every 12 on them! But something tells us they will be ok and they're definitely a good way to spend the time getting between cities.

We arrive in to Shanghai as we write this, now with a full week under our belt, and unfortunately there are grey skies glooming over us still, but we're optimistic that Shanghai will bring something fresh and exciting.