It's not a big town in the mountains, and there's not a lot else to do but explore the nearby National Protected Area by various modes of transport... which is exactly what we did on Sunday.
We were picked up by our local guide Hak and driven to a local Khmu village where our education of the tribal way of life in SE Asia continued. Hak is from the Black Thai tribe, one of 132 minority groups in Laos. He speaks Laos, the Black Thai language, Thai and English and his full name translated apparently means Mr. Perfect Love! He'd grown up learning how to survive in the jungle, so he had a lot of wisdom to impart on us, the only 2 people on the tour. In many ways he epitomises what we've learned about Lao people - multi-lingual, wanting to learn more, part of a large close family, resourceful and does everything with a smile on his face. He was telling us that when he was at high school he got hit from behind by a drunk on a moped and was put in hospital with serious injuries. He didn't get any compensation from the driver, except that his medical bills were paid for; instead he shrugs it off, saying he is lucky and still goes for a drink with the guy occasionally!
Anyway, when we arrived at the village we got a reminder of how basic life can be. The local people are experts at using their surroundings for the best, to the extent that most are farmers and live off the land.
After only 30 mins of trekking through the jungle, Hak screamed like a girl as a snake crossed his path and wriggled in to the bush. That was enough for us pay attention! A couple of hours later, we stopped for lunch. Hak then made a bench and a table out of bamboo using just a machete, and after 20 minutes we were eating sticky rice, omelette, veggies and Jeow (local sauce-based dish with chilli) off palm leaves on the make shift table, to the sound of Cicadas. After lunch we were shown how to make bird/rat/chicken traps and as we continued through the jungle, unfortunately no more snakes, but plenty of termites, bees, millipedes, centipedes, tics, etc. and plenty of different flora and fauna.
There are quite a few companies in town that operate Eco-conscious treks through their own part of the NPA, with little to pick them apart. Most, if not all, will 'sponsor' a particular local village, with a large proportion of our fees supposedly going to the people of that village, both to care for the protected area near their village and to support them when the weather can ruin things like their annual rice crops. This place is apparently the Lao pioneer in Eco travel and as a tourist you are welcomed with open arms as the more people who come means the more money going towards protecting the jungle.
Yesterday (Monday), we hired a moped and explored the town and surrounding area, passing through many Black Thai, Khmu and Laten villages, savouring another waterfall and taking in some of the scenery on the road to Muang Sing, north of Luang Namtha and on the way to the golden triangle (once infamous with the opium trade). As 'falang' (Laos word for foreigner) identified apparently by our big noses, it was so nice to be greeted everywhere we went with large smiles, big waves and loud shouts of Sabaii-Deeeee, especially from the children!
It is with teary eyes and happy memories that we leave Laos today. We've both really enjoyed this laid back and care free country, we both feel this is the best country that we've visited so far. Everywhere we've been in Asia, it's been the people and the atmosphere that has really made the difference. Not all Laos people are the same, there are obviously different customs across the country, but in general Laos people just have that extra warmth and charm.
Don't get me wrong, the music that is blared out on the buses and minibuses is terrible, they seem to be a little too reliant on investment from other countries (China mainly) and there have been a few times where things have not been as you'd expect them; the phrase 'that's Laos for you' is commonly used. But that just adds to the character, which we think will continue to change in the future thanks to the outside investment and as tourism picks up; we're fortunate to have experienced it now. And i think we're also lucky to be here at the end of the monsoon season, just at the transition to the cooler peak season. It also doesn't have the beaches of Thailand, the industriousness of China and Vietnam or the awe-inspiring sights of Cambodia, but you can't help but to relax here and adjust to Asia-time.
We've now got about 2 weeks left of Asia before going down under, and we'll be spending it back in Thailand. First stop Chiang Rai after our last land border!
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